TCB 30's Jeans C 14.1oz WIDE STRAIGHT-One Wash-33
Back pocket stitching
With the first concealed rivets
the two needle parallel stitching has been changed to one needle sewing
avoiding the rivets.
Vintage back pockets are also carefully stitched
but since the left and right sides are different in shape
TCB decided to create separate patterns for the right and left sides to carefully reproduce the slight distortion of each.
Cinch
The suspender buttons are gone
but the cinch back remains.
The two-needle cinch back is also used on the TCB.
Having seen a lot of vintage pieces
we have the impression that cinch backs are used properly in vintage pieces
and many of them have a hole through it.
Crotch rivets
Crotch rivets are still used in this period.
It was not popular among cowboys
but it existed until the beginning of the World War II period.
Coin pocket
The stitchwork on the ear of the coin pocket is stitched on the cowl.
The same stitching is on the koba
so the ears on the inside upper part of the coin pocket are playing with each other.
The space between the bottom of the obi and the coin pocket is narrow
so the coin pocket looks relatively large.
It is a small thing
but it changes the impression around the pocket a little.
Pocket Facing
The right side is not visible because of the coin pocket
but check the left side.
Usually
the direction of the grain of the other side of the cloth is horizontal to the belt
but in this case
it can be imagined that the marking and cutting were done by force without going through the grain of the fabric.
The characteristic wrinkles
commonly called 'Inazuma
' seen on the coin pockets
etc.
are also caused by the difference in the vertical and horizontal shrinkage rate of the fabric.
In 30's Jeans
the characteristic wrinkles may appear on the other side of the fabric as well.
Inside of the crotch
The seam allowance on the back of the small crotch is not finished
which is often mentioned as a characteristic of the World War II models. 37's models are also left uncut
so they are finished in the same way.
Crotch bar tack
Looking at the crotch from the front
the familiar crotch canker is missing.
This is a specification seen only on early 37s.
If we define 501XXC as early 37 model
the mid/late 37 model will have a crotch cuff.
Belt loops
In the 20s
there may have been a lack of power in the cannequins
or perhaps suspenders were the norm and no one used them in earnest.
Belt loops in the 20s were made of 2x1 light oz denim
but Model 37 is made of the same fabric as the base and is sturdier.
As it happens
they are finished medium-high
so the TCB has the same shape.
The needle width is 5.6 cm (7/32') and the belt loop width is 1.5 cm (1.5').
The color fading in the center of the belt loops gives it a medium-high feel.
Buttons
The vintage buttons used as reference are made of iron material
but they are white buttons that clearly have a different finish from both 20's and 40's.
To be honest
we do not know what this white weathering is.
As a result of my personal study
I adopted tin plating for the buttons.
Tin is the most expensive metal next to gold and silver
but we plated them because the white-white look was the closest to the vintage look.
we wondered if it was the 30's when people were searching for a finish
because at that time
buttons would come off due to rust if they were made of solid iron. I was delusional.
we can see some of them are vintage
but we can also imagine that the plating will peel off and the solid iron material will rust and a little brown color will emerge as it is used.
Winding Stitch
This is sewn by 1/4 inch
referring to the vintage.
This 37 model is the right height of the body height.
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